Discovering Howick: A Historic Gem in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands
Nestled in the rolling green hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, the small town of Howick beckons travelers with its blend of natural splendor, intriguing history, and a peaceful charm that feels worlds away from the bustle of South Africa’s larger cities. Known as the “Jewel of the Midlands,” Howick sits at 1,050 meters above sea level, roughly 88 kilometers inland from Durban and a short 24-kilometer jaunt from Pietermaritzburg. It’s a place where warm summers give way to crisp winters—sometimes dusted with a chill when snow graces the nearby Drakensberg Mountains—and where the past whispers through every waterfall and winding road.
A Town Born by the Falls
Howick’s story begins with water—specifically, the dramatic 95-meter plunge of the Umgeni River over dolerite cliffs, forming the iconic Howick Falls. To the Zulu people who first called this land home, the cascade was kwaNogqaza, or “The Place of the Tall One,” a name that hints at both its grandeur and its mystique. Local lore tells of the Inkhanyamba, a serpent-like creature said to dwell in the pool below, stirring storms when provoked—a tale that still captivates visitors today.
The town itself took root in the mid-19th century, shaped by the ambitions of colonial settlers. In 1849, Wesleyan missionary James Archbell acquired land along the Umgeni’s northern banks, where a perilous river crossing—known as the Umgeni Waterfall Drift—linked Pietermaritzburg to the interior. By 1850, with traffic increasing and wagons occasionally tumbling over the falls, the colonial government stepped in, purchasing part of Archbell’s land to establish a village. That November, 36 allotments went up for sale, and the settlement was christened Howick after the Northumberland estate of Earl Grey, the British Colonial Secretary at the time. Thus, a town was born, its fate forever tied to the river and its towering waterfall.
A Stage for History’s Turning Points
Howick’s quiet beauty belies its role in some of South Africa’s most pivotal moments. On August 5, 1962, a seemingly ordinary stretch of road between Howick and Lidgetton West became the site of Nelson Mandela’s arrest—an event that would lead to his 27-year imprisonment and, ultimately, his rise as a global symbol of resilience. Today, the Nelson Mandela Capture Site stands as a moving tribute, featuring a striking sculpture that resolves into Mandela’s likeness when viewed from just the right angle. The annual Mandela Day Marathon, finishing at this monument, draws runners and visitors alike, weaving Howick into the fabric of South Africa’s journey to freedom.
But Mandela’s story isn’t the only claim to fame. Some argue Howick may have witnessed the world’s first crewed flight. In 1871 and 1875, local tinkerer John Goodman Household is said to have soared in a homemade glider near Karkloof, outpacing the later feats of aviation pioneers like the Wright brothers. Though records vary on the distance—some suggest 80 meters—the tale adds a quirky footnote to Howick’s history, with a memorial at Curry’s Post honoring Household’s daring.
Nature’s Playground
Beyond its historical echoes, Howick is a paradise for those drawn to the outdoors. The Howick Falls remain the town’s crown jewel, a National Monument framed by viewing platforms and a steep trail to the pools below. Nearby, the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve, carved by the river’s relentless flow, teems with reintroduced wildlife—think zebra, wildebeest, and antelope—offering hikers and birdwatchers a serene escape. Just a short drive away, the Karkloof Falls (105 meters) and Midmar Dam beckon adventurers with hiking, fishing, and watersports amid breathtaking scenery.
The Midlands Meander, a scenic tourist route stretching from Pietermaritzburg to the Drakensberg, weaves through Howick, showcasing its artisanal spirit. Quaint shops brim with handwoven rugs, ceramics, and antiques, while cozy cafés serve up farm-fresh fare. It’s a gentle pace of life that invites you to linger, chat with locals, and savor the moment.
A Modern Retreat with Roots in the Past
Today, Howick balances its rural heritage with a growing appeal as a retreat destination. The establishment of retirement villages like Amberfield and Amber Valley reflects its allure for those seeking tranquility without sacrificing modern comforts. Yet, the town retains its small-village soul—evident in the Howick Museum’s tales of indigenous peoples and settlers, or the craft markets buzzing with local creativity.
For visitors, Howick offers a range of stays, from self-catering cottages to guesthouses tucked among the hills. It’s an ideal base for exploring the Midlands, whether you’re chasing waterfalls, tracing history, or simply unwinding in nature’s embrace. The annual Midmar Mile swim at the nearby dam draws crowds each February, adding a splash of excitement to this otherwise peaceful corner of KZN.
Lessons from Howick’s Harmony: A Message for Hopefield
Howick’s enduring beauty and quiet success offer a powerful example for towns like Hopefield, where the pull of tradition often wrestles with the promise of the new. What sets Howick apart is its embrace of change without losing its essence. The town didn’t cling to its colonial origins or shy away from its complex past; instead, it welcomed modern chapters—like the Mandela Capture Site and the tourism-driven Midlands Meander—while nurturing the natural and cultural treasures that define it. Retirement villages bloom alongside historic trails, and artisans sell their wares next to tales of the Inkhanyamba. This dance between old and new has turned Howick into more than a relic—it’s a thriving community that honors yesterday while stepping confidently into tomorrow.
For Hopefield, Howick whispers a truth: progress doesn’t erase heritage; it enriches it. By inviting fresh ideas—be it tourism, new residents, or bold ventures like Household’s glider—while safeguarding its soul, Howick has woven a tapestry of resilience and beauty. It’s a lesson in adaptation, proving that a town can grow without growing apart from its roots, offering Hopefield a roadmap to a future as vibrant as its past.
Why Howick Endures
What makes Howick special isn’t just its postcard-perfect falls or its brushes with history—it’s the way it holds onto its stories while welcoming the present. Here, the past isn’t a relic but a living thread, woven into the landscape and the lives of its 22,000 residents. Whether you’re standing at the edge of the falls, feeling the spray on your face, or tracing Mandela’s footsteps, Howick offers a rare chance to connect with South Africa’s heart—one waterfall, one memory at a time.
